Why Portmagee is the Best Kept Secret in Kerry, Ireland
Portmagee is one of the most beautiful and underrated villages in Ireland, and most travelers driving the Ring of Kerry drive straight past it without stopping. That is a mistake worth correcting.
Sitting at the foot of the Skellig Ring on the Iveragh Peninsula in County Kerry, Portmagee is a tiny colorful fishing village with a harbor that faces directly across to Valentia Island and some of the most extraordinary scenery in the entire country. It is also the main departure point for boat trips to Skellig Michael, the UNESCO World Heritage monastic island that became internationally famous as a Star Wars filming location, and one of the most breathtaking wildlife and heritage experiences in Europe.
I spent three nights in Portmagee and it was one of the highlights of my entire Ireland trip. In this guide I share everything you need to know about visiting, from the Skellig boat trip and the Skellig Ring drive to a full day on Valentia Island, the Kerry Cliffs, and the legendary Bridge Bar.
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Is Portmagee worth a visit?
Portmagee, in general, has been gaining a lot of popularity in recent years. And even though it may not be as exciting and lively as Dublin or Galway, this fishing village shows a different perspective on Ireland. It portrays the country’s coastal lifestyle and authentic culture beautifully.
Furthermore, Portmagee is known as a gateway to the renowned Skellig Ring, the ancient monastic settlement of Skellig Michael, as well as the fascinating Valentia Island, making it a great place to visit when road-tripping along the Wild Atlantic Way.
Additionally, Portmagee has breathtaking surroundings of lush greenery and stunning beaches, and the village features a picturesque harbor, colorful traditional houses, and a handful of vibrant pubs, quaint cafes, and restaurants serving delicious, hearty Irish dishes.
So, yes, all in all, Portmagee is definitely a destination worth having on your bucket list for your trip to the Ring of Kerry in Ireland.
What is the history of Portmagee Ireland?
Portmagee’s history can be traced back to ancient times, with evidence of early settlement and traces of prehistoric stone ring forts in the surrounding area.
Later, in the medieval period, Portmagee became a significant port for the locals due to its excellent geographical location. It was used both for fishing and trade. In fact, the village took its name from Captain Theobald Magee, who built a jetty in the 18th century to enhance the port’s facilities and promote trade.
However, Portmagee is mostly notable for its connection to the nearby Skellig Michael, an isolated monastic community on the nearby Skellig Island.
Founded by early Christian monks in the 6th century, the monastery thrived for over 600 years before being abandoned in the 13th century when deteriorating Atlantic weather made life on the rock untenable. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most extraordinary early medieval monuments in Europe.
You can visit Skellig Michael Island by tour only.
13 Things to Do in Portmagee
1. Skellig Ring scenic drive
Skellig Ring is undoubtedly one of the most scenic drives along the iconic Ring of Kerry, with plenty of unexpected surprises.
With Portmagee as the starting point, first, you can visit the impressive Kerry Cliffs, which are also the best spot to marvel at the Skellig Islands.
After capturing stunning photos of magnificent rugged coastline landscapes, venture towards St. Finian’s Bay for a lovely beach escape with gorgeous Atlantic Ocean views, as well as a chocolate factory to give a sweet touch to your drive.
Skellig Ring’s last stop is Ballinskelligs, a small seaside village home to a blue flag-awarded sandy beach and ruins of a castle and monastery while crossing beautiful rural landscapes with picturesque villages and stunning natural beauty.
How long does it take to drive the Skellig Ring?
The Skellig Ring Drive takes only about thirty minutes. However, when adding several stops, such as the Kerry Cliffs, St. Finian’s Bay, Skelligs Chocolate Factory, and Ballinskelligs, you can spend from a half day to a full day exploring this stunning pass.
2. Boat cruise to Skellig Michael
Skellig Michael, an ancient monastic settlement on Skellig Island, is one of the top attractions in County Kerry. Surrounded only by water, the settlement was the perfect home for ascetic monks seeking isolation, enlightenment, and peace.
Today, Skellig Michael is famous for the ruins of the monastery, well-preserved beehive-style huts, stone stairs, and steep lush green slopes. Furthermore, the island was used as a filming set for the new Star Wars trilogy, making it a fascinating location for film enthusiasts.
Apart from the monastery, Little Skellig, the smaller island is home to abundant wildlife, such as northern gannets, gray seals, basking sharks, minke whales, dolphins, and sea turtles.
Therefore, Skellig Islands are an excellent destination for those seeking a day spent among stunning natural beauty and exciting wildlife and those intrigued by Ireland’s early history.
How long is the boat trip from Portmagee to Skellig Michael?
As a UNESCO-listed destination, Skellig Islands is often part of many Ireland itineraries, but not everyone is fortunate enough to secure a spot on one of the Skellig Michael landing tours.
Landing tours to the island are usually run only in the peak season, specifically between mid-May and the end of September. Furthermore, it’s important to remember that these trips are weather-dependent, so often cancellations may occur.
Therefore, it is best to book a boat trip in advance. Usually, the boat trip from Portmagee to Skellig Michael lasts about one hour, while the tour allows visitors approximately 2 to 3 hours on the island.
Skellig Michael landing tour
A particular note is due for this tour because you should read the tour conditions and inclusion before booking. Here is the official page for Skellig Michael land tour e where you can read the information and book your tour.
If you just want to do a boat tour around the island and see it from the boat then you have quite a bit of options and there is more flexibility.
Portmagee has its own direct Star Wars connection beyond the island itself. The village served as the base for the cast and crew during the filming of Star Wars: The Force Awakens and The Last Jedi, and Mark Hamill (Luke Skywalker himself) was famously photographed pulling a pint of Guinness at The Moorings pub in the village. The fictional porgs from the Star Wars films were also inspired directly by the puffins on Skellig Michael, since the filmmakers were not permitted to remove the birds from their nesting sites and decided to digitally incorporate them into the story instead.
3. Visit the Kerry Cliffs
If you venture along the Skellig Ring, the Kerry Cliffs are a major highlight that should not be missed.
Rising 300 meters over the Atlantic Ocean, these rugged cliffs offer dramatic ocean views and a breathtakingly raw perspective of natural beauty.
Furthermore, on clear sky days, Kerry Cliffs is the best spot to witness the beauty of Skellig Michael. So, this is undoubtedly an excellent location to capture magnificent photos of the UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The Kerry cliffs are located on a private property and the entrance fee is 5 Euros. Also drones are not allowed.
Kerry Cliffs opening hours: Monday – Sunday 9.30 am – 5pm
In the premises there is a food truck where you can purchase delicious food and beverages. Also, you have the opportunity to camp if you like.
4. Skelligs Chocolate Factory
Skelligs Chocolate Factory is an excellent destination for an alternative experience on the Ring of Kerry. It offers an adventure through taste!
Located in Ballinskelligs, the factory offers the opportunity to witness the process of making delicious chocolate, which you can then taste. So, this is undoubtedly a fantastic activity for all chocolate fans and families with children.
The factory also features a charming cafe with a delicious tasting menu of various flavors, such as Vanilla, Ganache, Strawberry, Champagne, Cognac, and Cappuccino.
Additionally, during summer, they serve the delightful Lemon Truffle in white chocolate and tropical Tequila Sunrise in milk chocolate, while in the winter months, you can choose from warm flavors such as Irish Coffee and Hot Toddy with Chilli.
5. Portmagee whiskey Distillery
Portmagee Whiskey is a small-batch craft whiskey distillery founded by James Murphy, whose family has farmed this land for five generations. The distillery leans into the Kerry landscape and maritime heritage in both its production process and its branding, and the whiskey itself has received strong reviews from critics.
Whether you are a whiskey enthusiast or simply curious about Irish craft spirits, a tasting tour at the distillery is a genuinely interesting local experience and a way to support an independent family business that is helping to build Portmagee’s tourism identity.
I stayed in a house owned by the distillery founder during my visit and somehow never managed to go, which I consider one of my great travel regrets. Do not make the same mistake.
Visit the Portmagee Whiskey website for current tour times and booking information.
6. Fishing and Angling at Portmagee
As mentioned earlier, Portmagee has been a hub for fishing since medieval times. So, if you’re a fishing and angling fanatic, you’re in for a treat.
The most commonly caught species off Portmagee include pollock, mackerel, sea bass, wrasse, and cod, with conger eel and ray also frequently caught on deeper ground. The area is particularly well regarded for shore fishing as well as boat-based sea angling, and the sheltered channel between Portmagee and Valentia Island is a productive spot for bass fishing on an incoming tide.
Furthermore, you can try some of the most famous fishing techniques like heavy trolling for pollock, tips on material for support fishing for sea bream, the bichi-bachi, or fishing for sea bass while surfcasting.
However, be aware that fishing depends on season and weather conditions, so always check the forecast before your trip.
7. Beach Day at Reencaheragh Beach
Less than a 10-minute drive from Portmagee, you’ll find Reencaheragh Beach, a gorgeous secluded beach that showcases the Emerald Isle’s raw beauty perfectly.
Furthermore, the soft white sand, azure waves crashing on the rocky terrain, the backdrop of lush green hills, and the serene ambiance make the beach the best destination for a tranquil stroll to escape the hustle and bustle of Ireland’s lively towns.
So, overall, Reencaheragh Beach is a beautiful destination to seek some quiet and peace with your partner or an adventurous trip with your kids and furry friends.
8. Hike at Coomanaspig Mountain
Coomanaspig Mountain, or Pass along the Skellig Ring, is about 10 minutes from Portmagee by car and is often described as one of the highest places in Ireland to be reached by car.
The mountain is quite steep, so it presents an excellent opportunity for those seeking high-adrenaline activities and brave enough to reach the top. And once you arrive at the top, you will be treated to astonishing views unparalleled in the country.
In fact, you can see sweeping views of lush landscapes across beautiful Valentia Island and ranging as far as Dingle and the Beara Peninsula on a clear day.
So, with the ascent to the pass as an adventurous activity, the mountain’s gorgeous panoramic views, and its close proximity to Portmagee, Coomanaspig is a must-visit spot.
9. Stargazing at Kerry Dark Sky Reserve
The area surrounding Portmagee is part of the Kerry International Dark Sky Reserve, which holds Gold Tier status from the International Dark Sky Association. This makes it only the third place on earth to receive this designation, alongside sites in Namibia and New Zealand. What this means in practice is that on a clear night the skies above Portmagee offer some of the most spectacular stargazing on the planet, with the Milky Way clearly visible to the naked eye and the Andromeda Galaxy visible without a telescope.
After a day exploring the Skellig Ring and the Kerry Cliffs, staying out after dark in Portmagee on a clear night is an experience that will stay with you. The harbor area, the bridge over to Valentia Island, and the elevated pass at Coomanaspig are all excellent stargazing spots. Summer months offer the best conditions and the longest windows between full darkness and dawn. Check the weather forecast for cloud cover before planning your evening.
10. Explore the village’s local shops and crafts
Portmagee may be a small fishing village, but it has plenty of shops with local products, crafts, and art to explore. From cozy cafes with charming ambiance to the bustling farmer’s market with the fresh catch of the day and homemade treats, you’ll surely discover something unique.
But a must-visit shop all travelers greatly love is Cois Cuain Gift Shop, a lively shop that promises to bring to this tiny village a flair of choice. But also, with its charming rustic facade and inviting atmosphere, the shop creates a unique but authentic Irish experience.
The shop features a treasure trove of carefully curated gifts and souvenirs that beautifully reflect the essence of the surrounding environment. From intricate handmade crafts showcasing local artisans’ talents to stunning pieces of traditional Irish jewelry, there is something to find and cherish.
11. Enjoy the live music at the Bridge Bar
When in a small town in Ireland, a must-do activity is immersing in the country’s culture. An excellent way to do that is by enjoying a night outing at a local pub with lively folk music.
The Bridge Bar is a popular spot both for locals and tourists due to its fun-filled atmosphere with traditional music and dancers, making this tiny village come alive every Friday and Sunday night.
Additionally, in summertime, the bar features many other traditional Irish dances, as well as artists from across the region showcasing County Kerry’s talent.
So, if you want to experience Ireland’s culture through art, the Bridge Bar is the place to be!
12. Go on a day trip to Valentia Island
Valentia Island is one of the most rewarding day trips from Portmagee and deserves a full day of your time. You can reach it by driving across the bridge from Portmagee in under two minutes or by taking the car ferry from Cahersiveen.
The island packs an extraordinary amount into a small area: the Skellig Experience Visitor Centre with its boat tours around the islands, the fossilized tetrapod tracks that are 385 million years old and among the oldest such prints in the world, the panoramic views from Geokaun Mountain over Dingle Bay, the dramatic Bray Head Loop Walk with its views toward Skellig Michael and Puffin Island, and the landing point of the first transatlantic telegraph cable laid in 1866.
I spent a full day on Valentia Island and still felt I could have used more time.
👉 Read my complete guide to everything you can see and do on Valentia Island here
13. Witness Portmagee festival and events
Portmagee set dancing and music festival
For over 20 years, Portmagee has been home to the Annual Traditional Irish Set Dancing and Music Weekend on the May Bank Holiday weekend.
Throughout the festival, you can witness various performances of folk dances such as step dancing, jig dancing, sean nós dancing, céilí dance, and Irish tap dancing. Also, several live music sessions occur within the Bridge Bar and other venues.
Other activities you can indulge in are a Set Dance Workshop and a “Mighty” Céilí with a class céilí band.
Old Year’s Night
Since 1727, Portmagee has celebrated the new year a little differently after witnessing a unique way of welcoming the new year by a French crew of a Kinsale brig that landed in the village’s port.
On New Year’s Eve, when the locals were retiring for the night, the French crew started marching through the village’s streets holding torches led by a piper.
In the center of the marching men was a man with a shaggy appearance. As they returned to the pier, a shot rang out loudly, with the man falling down as if he were dead.
Suddenly, a young man with proper attire and a top hat appeared, leading the march once again within the village. The young man explained then to the villagers that the march symbolized the year gone by and the year that had just begun.
And so since then, Portmagee has celebrated in a very unique way the Old Year’s Night.
Where to eat in Portmagee
The Moorings Guesthouse and Seafood Restaurant
Located in the heart of Portmagee and with the ocean at its doorstep, the Moorings Restaurant offers delectable seafood cuisine in a cozy and lively ambiance with unusual memorabilia and unique antiques.
The menu is rich in Irish specialties based on the availability of the best quality of local produce. So, expect to sample from delicious artisan to homemade brown bread to the freshest fish and shellfish.
The restaurant is open only from April to October.
Fisherman’s Bar & Skellig Restaurant Portmagee
Fishermen’s Bar and Restaurant is a family-operated eatery established in 2003 with the promise to serve the most delicious and freshest fresh fish to locals and tourists. Today, with a lively atmosphere and warm hospitality, the restaurant has become one of the finest spots in the village to taste hearty Irish cuisine.
A must-try dish at the restaurant is the seafood platter, a combination of local delicacies such as muscles, crab, prawns, fried fish filet, and smoked salmon, as well as salad and chips.
Skellig Rock Café
Offering a variety of dishes, Skellig Rock Cafe is a lively spot in Portmagee for delicious meals, from traditional Irish breakfasts and sandwiches and snacks to fresh seafood and desserts.
Furthermore, the restaurant’s lively ambiance, central location, and locally friendly staff make it an excellent spot to enjoy a hearty meal while relishing the beautiful scenery.
to the top of its majestic cliffs for breathtaking views that will leave you in awe.
How do you get to Portmagee?
Flights to Portmagee
The nearest airport to Portmagee is the Kerry Airport, which is about 80 km away from the village. The airport offers regular flights from Dublin, London, Manchester, and several other European cities.
Another alternative is to fly to Shannon Airport or Cork Airport, which offers a wider range of international flights but requires additional travel time.
You can pick up a rental car from any airport but I recommend you prebook your car on a trustworthy site (see more what I think about renting a car in Ireland in the next section).
Driving or renting a car
As I mentioned before, the best and most convenient way to reach Portmagee is by driving or renting a car. You can fly into Dublin, and rent a car from there, like I did, or you can fly into the nearest airport if you are in a hurry.
But you should know that distances in Ireland are not that big and driving in Ireland is amazing, both for the beautiful roads and the spectacular landscapes you will see.
If you’re traveling from within Ireland, the easiest route is taking the N70 and R565, which lead you directly to Portmagee. Specifically, the village sits on R565 and is the beginning of Skellig Ring, a short detour from the famous Ring of Kerry.
If you’re planning to rent a car in Ireland, it is best to book one in advance and pick it up at the airport. I have been using NewWay
However, if you are coming from the US chances are you already have a car insurance included in your credit card so you may want to check out other car rentals that offer the option of excluding the full insurance.
You can find them in Discover Cars, a company that I have always recommended for the amazing variety of options and their incredibly high review score.
Public Transport
Public transportation is a hassle-free and budget-friendly way to reach Portmagee. The most convenient option is to take a bus. For instance, Bus Eireann operates regular routes that pass through Portmagee.
From major cities like Dublin, Cork, or Limerick, you can take a bus to Cahersiveen, and from there, take another bus or a taxi to reach Portmagee.
However, if you plan to use public transportation, it’s important to check the bus schedules in advance as they vary depending on the season. Furthermore, bus services may have limited availability during weekends or public holidays.
Where to stay in Portmagee
I stayed in a private home because I prefer the privacy it gives me, the extra space and the washing machine because I travel for long periods of time, otherwise if it’s only for a few days there are a few hotel options in Portmagee, as listed below.
Hotel: The Moorings Hotel & Seafood Restaurant
Located by Portmagee’s picturesque harbor, the Moorings Guesthouse features elegant rooms with luxurious hot tubs and king-sized beds for a relaxing and unforgettable stay.
Also, the Moorings Guesthouse is famous for its exceptional restaurant serving delicious, fresh seafood, while the Bridge Bar hosts fun nights with traditional Irish music and dancing. Make sure you reserve your spot in advance, even in high season. 😜
Bed and Breakfast: Seagull Cottage B&B
Situated just outside Portmagee, Seagull Cottage is a lovely bed and breakfast with cozy rooms featuring a kitchenette, a private bathroom with a walk-in shower, and free toiletries.
Furthermore, the inn features free private parking, a lovely garden with a picnic area, a daily breakfast buffet with continental and vegetarian options, and an excellent location for those wishing to explore the wider region of Portmagee, as well as Skellig Islands.
Budget: Skellig Port Accommodation (2 bedroom apartment)
Skellig Port Accommodation is a cozy 2 bedroom apartment located at a walking distance from Portmagee port. It’s very nicely decorated and it includes all the facilities you need, plus a hot tub and a terrace with spectacular seaviews.
Best time to visit Portmagee
Best Time to Visit Portmagee
The best time to visit Portmagee is between May and September when the Skellig Michael boat trips are running and the long daylight hours give you maximum time to explore the Kerry landscape. Late May through July is the optimal window combining good weather, puffin season on Skellig Michael, active whale and dolphin watching in the surrounding waters, and slightly smaller crowds than the peak August weeks.
May is when the Skellig Michael landing season opens on May 11th. The puffins arrive in April and by May the colony is fully established. The Kerry landscape in May is at its most vividly green and the days are extraordinarily long.
June and July offer the most reliable weather and the warmest temperatures. July and August are peak season and the most popular time for Skellig trips, which means boats book out furthest in advance. If you want to visit in peak summer book Skellig tours at least six to eight weeks ahead.
August is the busiest month. The village is lively and the atmosphere is excellent but accommodation fills up weeks ahead and the Skellig trips are the most competitive to secure.
September is underrated. The crowds begin to ease after the first week, prices drop, the weather is still reasonable, and the Skellig trips run until the end of the month. September is a genuinely excellent time to visit if your schedule is flexible.
October through April is off-season. Skellig boat trips do not operate and several restaurants and guesthouses close or reduce hours. The Kerry landscape in winter is dramatically beautiful but most of the main activities are unavailable.
How Many Days Do You Need in Portmagee?
Three nights is the ideal amount of time and is exactly what I spent there. This gives you one full day for the Skellig Michael boat trip, one full day to explore Valentia Island properly including the Skellig Experience Centre, Bray Head, Geokaun Mountain, the tetrapod tracks, and the transatlantic cable site, and one day for the Skellig Ring drive with stops at the Kerry Cliffs, St Finian’s Bay, the Chocolate Factory, and Ballinskelligs. Two nights is a minimum if you want to do both the Skellig trip and Valentia Island.
One important practical note: always book your Skellig Michael boat trip for your first available day and use any subsequent days as backup, since tours are frequently cancelled due to weather. If you arrive and your Skellig trip is cancelled on day one you want to still have another morning available to try again.
My personal Tips for visiting Portmagee Ireland
Some practical tips to remember before going to Portmagee include booking accommodation, rental cars, and tours in advance, especially tours to Skellig Michael, checking public transportation and events or festivals’ schedules, and being prepared for changeable weather by bringing layers and waterproof clothing.
Another essential thing to remember is to respect the area’s unspoiled natural beauty.
Also if you have time, I would consider an extra day where you don’t have to rush around to see everything but take a lazy day to hang out in the port and walk along the bridge to Valentia island taking in all the spectacular views.
Frequently Asked Questions: Portmagee Ireland
How Did Portmagee Get Its Name?
Portmagee takes its name from Captain Theobald Magee, an 18th century pirate and smuggler who used the village as a base of operations and built a jetty to facilitate trade and, less officially, contraband. The name has stuck for over two centuries and the smuggling history adds a layer of character to this already extraordinary corner of Kerry.
Is Portmagee Worth Visiting?
Absolutely. Portmagee is one of the most rewarding stops on the entire Ring of Kerry and the best base for exploring Skellig Michael, the Skellig Ring, Valentia Island, and the Kerry Cliffs. It is small, genuinely beautiful, and far less overrun with tourists than Killarney or Kenmare. Three nights here will give you some of the best experiences available anywhere in Ireland.
How Many Days Do You Need in Portmagee?
Three nights is ideal. This gives you one day for the Skellig Michael boat trip, one full day for Valentia Island, and one day for the Skellig Ring drive including the Kerry Cliffs, St Finian’s Bay, the Skelligs Chocolate Factory, and Ballinskelligs. Two nights is the minimum if you want to do both the Skellig trip and Valentia Island properly.
How Do You Get to Portmagee?
A car is essential. Portmagee is located on the R565 on the Iveragh Peninsula in southwest Kerry. From Killarney take the N70 toward Cahersiveen then follow signs for Portmagee on the R565. The drive from Killarney takes approximately one hour. Public transport to Portmagee is extremely limited and not a practical option for most visitors.
What is the Closest Airport to Portmagee?
Kerry Airport in Farranfore is the closest airport at approximately 80 km from Portmagee, about one hour by car. Cork Airport and Shannon Airport are further but offer a wider range of international connections and are worth considering if you are flying from outside Ireland or the UK.
When is the Best Time to Visit Portmagee?
May through September is the best window when the Skellig Michael boat trips are running and the long daylight hours give you maximum time to explore. Late May through July is the sweet spot combining good weather, puffins on Skellig Michael, active whale and dolphin watching, and slightly smaller crowds than August. September is an underrated month when crowds ease, prices drop, and Skellig trips still run until the end of the month.
How Do You Book the Skellig Michael Boat Trip?
Landing tours to Skellig Michael must be booked in advance through one of the licensed operators departing from Portmagee. Visit the official Skellig Michael website for a list of licensed operators and booking links. The landing season runs from 11 May to 30 September and spaces are extremely limited as only 13 boat licenses are granted each year. Book as early as possible, ideally months in advance for summer travel. Eco boat tours that circle the islands without landing are also available and have more flexibility.
Can the Skellig Michael Boat Trip Be Cancelled?
Yes and this happens regularly. The crossing involves an hour on the open Atlantic and the sea conditions around the Skellig Islands can be rough even on otherwise pleasant days. The guides who live on the island assess conditions each morning and inform the Portmagee operators. If conditions are unsuitable the trip is cancelled and rescheduled or refunded. Always book your Skellig trip for your first available morning in Portmagee so you have subsequent days as backup. Building flexibility into your itinerary around the Skellig trip is strongly recommended.
Where is the Best Place to See the Skellig Islands from the Mainland?
The Kerry Cliffs are the best mainland viewpoint for the Skellig Islands. Rising approximately 300 meters above the Atlantic on the Skellig Ring, they offer a direct and dramatic view of Skellig Michael and Little Skellig on clear days. The Kerry Cliffs are located on private land with an entrance fee of 8 euros per adult. Drones are not permitted.
Is There Parking in Portmagee?
Yes and it is free. There is a free car park at the harbor which is the most central option, and additional free parking near the church at the eastern end of the village. The village is small enough that wherever you park you are within a two-minute walk of everything.
What is the Bridge Bar in Portmagee?
The Bridge Bar is the most famous pub in Portmagee and one of the best traditional music venues in Kerry. It is part of the Moorings Guesthouse and hosts live traditional Irish music and set dancing on Friday and Sunday nights throughout the summer, with additional Irish nights on Tuesdays in July and August. It is enormously popular with both locals and visitors so reservations are strongly recommended, especially in peak season. Mark Hamill famously pulled a pint of Guinness here during the Star Wars filming period, and the bar has the photographs to prove it.
What is the Kerry Dark Sky Reserve?
The area around Portmagee is part of the Kerry International Dark Sky Reserve, which holds Gold Tier status from the International Dark Sky Association. This makes it only the third place on the entire planet to receive this designation after sites in Namibia and New Zealand. On a clear night the skies above Portmagee offer some of the most spectacular stargazing anywhere on earth, with the Milky Way visible to the naked eye and the Andromeda Galaxy visible without a telescope. The harbor area and the elevated pass at Coomanaspig are excellent spots for stargazing after dark.
Can You Walk from Portmagee to Valentia Island?
You cannot walk but you can drive across the bridge from Portmagee to Valentia Island in under two minutes. The bridge connecting the village to the island is one of the most scenic short drives in Kerry. Alternatively you can take the car ferry from Cahersiveen on the other side of Valentia Island if you are approaching from that direction.
Final Thoughts: Should You Visit Portmagee?
Portmagee was the highlight of my first Ireland trip and I have been recommending it to everyone since.
It is a tiny village, but it punches far above its weight in terms of what is within reach of it, from one of the most extraordinary UNESCO World Heritage sites in Europe to some of the finest coastal scenery on the island, a Gold Tier Dark Sky Reserve, and a pub with live traditional music that feels genuinely local rather than staged for tourists.
Most Ring of Kerry itineraries rush through this stretch of coast. Do not do that. Give Portmagee three nights, book your Skellig trip the moment you confirm your travel dates, and leave yourself at least one evening to sit at the harbor watching the sun go down over Valentia Island with a pint from the Bridge Bar.
It is a small place. It is also unforgettable.
