A complete guide to Baja California Sur Whale Watching

I discovered Baja California whale watching in 2018 on my first road trip in Baja California, and I fell in love with it completely.

I returned to La Paz twice, the second time on a road trip from La Paz to Ensenada and back, which lasted a month. During this time, I visited every single whale-watching spot in Baja.

It is said that whales possess special healing powers. I’m not sure about that, but watching them breach, flip their tails, and dance in the water is kind of magical.

Every time I managed to get so close to whales and even touch them for the Gray Whales, I felt such a blessing, a connection with Mother Nature.

Those are the gray whales, and there are many spots where you can watch them and get close to them without creating any environmental issues; on the contrary, they are the ones getting close to you and showing off their newborn baby whales. It’s an unforgettable experience.

Also, viewing the huge silhouettes of blue whales is an experience that everyone should have. You can find these majestic creatures in Loreto Bay, but those ones are untouchable, of course.

The largest living animal on earth, and you must keep your distance not to disrupt their natural behavior. I will talk about them further on, in this post.

The humpback whales are also a show to watch; how they flip out of the water and jump back in like a dance is an incredible sight.

IMPORTANT MESSAGE – Please be informed that I promote whale watching and other wildlife-related activities only when the animals are left free in their natural environment, which we are essentially invading, but with all necessary precautions to minimize disruption to their natural behavior. Rest assured I would never support any form of animal exploitation including zoos and themed parks that uses animals as a form of entertainment and keep them from their natural habitat. In fact please NEVER go swimming with dolphins in parks, where they are kept in captivity.

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Where to go whale watching in Baja California Sur

Here a brief table on where to watch what kind of whales

Whale watching in Baja California Sur: Cabo San Lucas

Cabo is one of the easiest and most accessible destinations to spot whales due to its proximity to the international airport.

The area of los Cabos, in the farthest south of Baja California, includes the touristy cities of Cabo San Lucas and San José’ al Cabo.

Despite the overdevelopment of the coast and the incessant growth in the number of luxurious hotels and tourist facilities, nature is still thriving, and Cabo boasts a wealth of marine activities all year round, including whale watching.

Right in front of Cabo’s coast, the Sea of Cortez meets the ocean, making it a unique location where many marine mammals and other animals entering the area pass by.

Many tour companies offer boat tours to spot this magnificent mammal. Although the sight of the Humpback whale is guaranteed, you will also likely see grey whales, dolphins, and orcas (killer whales).

I went whale watching with CaboTrek and I cannot recommend them enough. They have relatively small groups per boat and an enthusiastic marine biologist will be with you to explain about the whales and local marine life in general.

I wrote a full article about whale watching in Cabo where I share a few tips on how to choose the best whale-watching tour for you.

Whale watching in Cabo Pulmo

At about a 2-hour drive from Los Cabos International Airport, Cabo Pulmo is a very special village on the coast, a paradise for underwater lovers. With its two dirt roads and laid-back lifestyle, it’s a world apart from its neighboring tourist hubs of Cabo San Lucas and San Jose.

The peaceful village offers an amazing snorkeling and whale-watching experience.

If you don’t have much time, you can get on a snorkeling tour, and you will be able to see humpback whales too.

To learn more about my experience and get more information, check out my full guide to Cabo Pulmo.

whale watching in Baja California Sur: Swim with whale sharks in La Paz

La Paz is the capital of Baja California Sur, although there are fewer hotels compared to Cabo.

Despite the city’s huge expansion, life revolves around the Malecon, the extended promenade along the bay where locals and tourists alike gather at the end of the day when the temperatures are cooler, and the sunset paints the sky with breathtaking hues.

This area includes the Isla of Espiritu Santu and other small deserted areas, also proclaimed a UNESCO World Natural Heritage site for their importance as a habitat for many birds, reptiles, and mammal species.

The morphology of the territory off the shores of La Paz, with deep waters, favors a wealth of marine life, which also means an abundance of food that attracts great whales such as Blue, Fin, Sperm, and Humpback.

Large pods of bottlenose dolphins are easily spotted, not to mention the biggest colony of sea lions that lives north of the island of Espiritu Santo. 

However, La Paz bay is also popular for the presence of the biggest fish on the planet, the whale sharks, also called the gentle giants of the sea, because despite their humongous size, they are completely harmless.

Local fishermen organize tours from late December through the end of March, and you can swim with whale sharks while respecting their behavior, therefore without touching them. 

This amazing activity, which I recommend doing once in your life, is super controlled in Mexico, as a way to protect the environment and the natural habitat of this beautiful fish.

That means that your time on the water is limited to 15 minutes so that other tourists can experience it too.

However, you will repeat it a few times during your tour.

You can also swim with whale sharks in Cancun, Holbox, and Isla Mujeres in the Mexican state of Quintana Roo, where many tours are available.

Just in a different season. In fact, while whale watching on the Pacific coast is only possible in the winter months, on the Southeast Mexican coast, whale season is from June through September.

Whale watching in Baja California Sur: Loreto

The charming Pueblo Magico (Magic Town) of Loreto deserves more attention than it actually receives, for the abundance of marine life in its bay, its cultural heritage, and the wealth of things to do in its surroundings.

So much so that I wrote a post on the 11 amazing things to do in Loreto so that you can’t miss it.

Not many know that Loreto Bay is both a protected marine park and a UNESCO natural heritage site for its unique underwater richness. It is home, in fact, to 891 fish species, including 90 endemic fishes and 695 vascular plant species, more than in any marine and insular property on the World Heritage List (source  Ocean Foundation)

Loreto bay is also one of the few water territories where the blue whales hang out at an easy reach for the human eye. Blue whales are the largest animals seen on earth, and they usually live in the open waters where it is unlikely that they will be spotted.

Apparently, the richness of the Sea of Cortez, in the Gulf of California, which is called the world’s aquarium, is a good motivation for those spectacular marine mammals to pay a visit and make it their home for a while, during which time they mate and give birth.

The area is also a UNESCO World Heritage site for its richness in underwater flora and fauna.

Seeing those majestic creatures diving and submerging in the water is a unique and special experience that I suggest anyone who loves wildlife and nature should have.

Local tour companies organize whale-watching tours in Loreto from January through mid-April.

The tour lasts from 7.30 am through 2 pm, and it’s most likely that you will also see fin whales and large pods of dolphins racing with your boat. You can read my whale-watching experience in Loreto in my dedicated post.

But I can reveal right now that during my amazing day trip to see the blue whales, we also had a surprising encounter with hundreds of bottlenose dolphins flipping around our boat, it was just unbelievable. That sight only would have made the trip.

Where to see the Grey whales in Baja California Sur

SOME INTERESTING FACTS ABOUT THE GREY WHALES IN BAJA CALIFORNIA SUR

Every year in winter, grey whales migrate from the cold Alaskan water to the warmer Baja coast to find a protective shelter from predators and have their babies in tranquility and mate.

Although you can see them from January through mid-April, March is always the best time to see whales in Baja because the mating season is over, and the males are heading further out in the ocean instead of chasing the females, who can now relax and hang out in tranquility with their new baby.

Sometimes, they love to come by the boat to show off their calf. It’s mind-blowing.

It’s a joy to see them swimming in pairs and together, playing around the boat.

I want to imagine they are teaching the babies not to be scared of us.

There are 5 places to see the grey whales in Baja: three in Magdalena Bay ( Puerto Adolfo Lopez Mateos, Puerto San Carlos, and Puerto Chale), Puerto San Carlos, and Guerrero Negro. I have been to all of them and here is how my experience was in each one so you can pick what sounds best for you.

Grey Whale watching in Puerto Chale

Puerto Chale started to become one of the top places to see Gray Whales from La Paz or Cabo San Lucas. It’s the closest of the three to La Paz, and you can see so many whales in its beautiful bay.

It’s also easier to go on a day trip from La Paz to Puerto Chale.

The place is quite rustic; there is no hotel where to stay, so make sure you plan your visit so that you have time to leave and get back to your hotel for the night before it gets dark.

I booked my tour with Yesenia Tours, and I had a great experience. However, I believe all the local companies offer similar treatment.

They offer 2-hour and 3-hour tours, with the latter including a stop at Margarita Island for a swim, if you dare. I chose the 3-hour tour but I ended up staying among the whales most of the time with a short stop at the beach.

It cost me 1500 mxn (75 USD) per hour. Minimum 3 hours because you need time to get out to the bay where the whales hang out, which is about 45 minutes ride from the coast. Make sure to agree on the price before confirming the booking. Also, you must pay in Mexican Pesos cash, so go prepared.

The drive from La Paz takes about 2 hours and 30 minutes, and once you get to Puerto Chale, you can park your car (50 MXN) and walk to the tour company you booked with. They are all located by the water.

Although you may be able to just get there and find somebody available to take you, I wouldn’t risk it, because they work with tour companies as well, so you could end up getting there for nothing because they are all busy.

Also, you will need your own car, as there is no transportation. If you don’t feel like driving in Baja, you can book a tour from either Cabo or La Paz.

This private tour to Puerto Chale is led by a marine biologist, which adds extra value to your tour.

In fact, keep in mind that the captain of the boat is not a guide, and won’t share much information about the whales or the area.

If you are traveling by yourself, a private tour from La Paz probably gets too expensive. You can choose this tour instead where you will share the boat and transportation with other people.

If you are renting a car in La Paz or Cabo San Lucas, I recommend booking on Discover Cars, a highly-rated platform where you can compare prices among different car rentals and get full protection coverage for a small extra fee.

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Grey Whale watching in Puerto San Carlos

I finally made it to Puerto San Carlos on my third trip to Baja. The previous year I went too late and the season was over. This time I made it right when the whales were coming in and it was spectacular.

Since I wasn’t sure about the company to book my tour with, I just showed up and stop by a local travel agent who recommended Magdalena Bay Whale Tours which is based inside the Hotel Isabela.

I booked my tour with them and was lucky to find a room in their hotel as well, which was very convenient.

The hotel is not fancy but the bed was very comfortable. I got lucky as they gave me their last room available. But I would suggest you book your room in advance or be ready to look for another hotel if it’s full.

I loved their tour because I asked if it was possible to be on the boat with fewer people, as I was going to do a lot of photography, and I needed space to move around, and Isabela, the owner, was happy to accommodate me.

We spent 4 hours in the bay watching whales, and it was unbelievably beautiful from the very start, with a spectacular sunrise.

The tour starts at 7 am and ends at 1 pm. Around 11.30, the captain will ask the group if they are interested in having lunch in their camp on the island or just staying out and watching whales.

We decided to stay out and loved it. We had some chips and cookies to snack on, as well as water, but you can bring your own as well.

Drones are allowed here in San Carlos, so I also took some great shots.

Grey Whale watching in Puerto Adolfo Lopez Mateos

Whale watching in Magdalena Bay is becoming more and more popular among whale lovers, and Adolfo Lopez Mateos is one of the best places to see the gray whales.

Located at about 430 Km from Cabo San Lucas, on the Pacific coast of Baja, Magdalena Bay is the largest bay where you can experience very special encounters with the gray whales with a short ride on small boats.

Since the whale watching activity has been a thing, in this particular side of the world, gray whales have become so accustomed to the human presence that they even enjoy their presence and expect a nice scrub on their back any time they come close.

Otherwise, they get offended and swim away. No joke.

Attracted by the motor of the boat, as soon as the fisherman reaches the area of the bay where they hang out, they appear nose up, right by the side of the boat, a unique experience for us wildlife lovers, to be able to touch their gummy skin and make such a special connection with such divine creatures.

Adolfo López Mateos is a fishing town at a 1-hour drive from Ciudad Constitución, the second city you will find coming from La Paz. Road signs are visible, so you can’t get lost.

Adolfo Lopez Mateos was actually my favorite place for gray whale encounters, but when I returned the following year, it wasn’t as good because I found a lot of wind, and the sea was choppy, and we didn’t see many whales. So it really depends on the weather.

However, if the conditions are good, Adolfo Lopez Mateos is a great place to see the whales. The first time I went there, they would come very close to the boat and let you pet them, even kiss them.

There are two main reasons why I love whale watching in Adolfo Lopez Mateos.

1. First of all, you don’t need to navigate for a long time to reach the spot where the whales hang out.
2. You can decide how many people you want to travel with and how much you want to spend. It sounds confusing, but I am going to explain it in a bit. (keep reading)

How to book a whale-watching tour in Adolfo López Mateos

Once you get to the marina (Grey Whale Sanctuary on Google Maps) you will see a few authorized tour companies, one next to the other.

They all cooperate with each other and have the same rates, which is a fixed rate of 1600 MXN per hour (2023 rates), no matter how many people are on the boat.

The small boats (lanchas) can hold a maximum of 12 people, but I would suggest not more than 6 or 7 for the best experience.

I was alone, so I just asked around and waited for more people to arrive.

As I did two tours in both cases, I met 2 other couples, and we shared the boat cost.

Easy and the best experience ever!

If you wish to stay in Lopez Mateos, be advised that the hotel options are scarce and very modest.

I stayed at the hotel Mangrove Inn, the first time, a little pricy for what it was, but very charming in its simplicity, and the best in the area.

The bungalows were located right on a river, an interesting spot for bird watchers.

It’s my understanding that it’s no longer there.  The second time I stayed at the Whale Nest right by the marina, where the boats leave and it was really cute and convenient.

Grey Whale Watching in San Ignacio Lagoon

Baja California‘s whale-watching season attracts a large number of wildlife enthusiasts and experts who come here specifically to see the whales for days. Laguna San Ignacio is one of the best places to camp, and you spend days just watching whales and staying connected with Mother Nature. 

Normally, you are told to keep your distance and not even dare touch the animals, including other types of whales.

In this case, it’s the opposite: if you don’t pet them, they turn around and go away.

Isn’t it amazing?

How to see the whales in San Ignacio Lagoon

There are many different eco camps there where you can spend a few nights and go out on the boat multiple times to see whales.

You can also go for one tour experience only.

I went twice and in both cases with Kuyiba a very popular local agency that has been there forever.

They have an office in town, right in the plaza, but it’s better if you arrange your tour or stay prior to your arrival, especially in March when it’s the high season.

If you wish to stay for more days in their bungalows you need to buy their 4 days/3 nights packages.

If you wish to stay one night only, you can book their tent, but they are fully equipped and warm.

When you stay for a few days, the tours are included in the package. Once you arrive, the camp manager will inform you of the tour schedule, which is determined by the weather and the number of participants.

When you wake up in the morning, make sure to tell them you are there and waiting to go on a tour, and stay in sight. They are a bit “informal” and they won’t come and look out for you.

You can also book more tours in a day. The prices are on their website.

One day whale watching in San Ignacio lagoon

If you just want to go for a tour, you can spend the night in San Ignacio, which is a pretty historical town with a cute church and a few restaurants. In the morning, you pass by the office of Kuyba, pay for your tour, and drive there. It’s about a 1-hour drive from San Ignacio on a dirt road.

If you have 4-wheel drive, it would be much better, but I have always been with a normal car, and I never had a problem. I almost got lost on my way back, but that’s just me.

But if it hadn’t rained heavily in the previous days, you’ll be fine with a regular car.

Once you have arrived at their camping site, you will regret not having booked the 3-day tour, but you will go ahead with your own 2-hour boat tour.

If you are lucky, not many people will be there, and you will have to share the boat with only a few other travelers; otherwise, they might need to fill the boat with more people.

That’s a matter of timing and luck. 🙂

Besides the spectacular whale-watching tour, look around for hawks and other birds.

The wild surrounding nature and mangroves are home to many bird species as well.

San Ignacio is also a pretty town with an old mission to visit.

If you have spare time, the Kuyuba office also organizes hiking tours in the surrounding area to see the Cave paintings.

Also, for hiking, you can choose between 1 1-day up to 4-day tour.

Plenty of things to do around San Ignacio.

Whale watching in Baja California Sur: Guerrero Negro

I really wanted to reach the very north of  Baja California Sur on the Pacific Ocean coast and try all the possible whale-watching experiences available in Baja. And so I did.

Guerrero Negro is a small town right before the border with Baja California (north).

The town is everything but charming and its restaurants and hotels, are rather shabby I would say.

An interesting fact is that there is a salt industry, and the salt lakes will be your spectacular view during the entire trip on the way to the lagoon.

Please make sure you drive around the Salt Lake area during sunset. I have missed it, but it must be gorgeous to watch.

When I went to Guerrero negro for the first time, I had a bad experience, and I thought it was the worst place to see the gray whales, and here is why.

You cannot reach the entrance of the lagoon on your own; you need to join an organized tour from town unless you get a special permit, although I didn’t manage to understand how.

All the tour companies work with the local cooperatives of fishermen who are based in the Ojo de Liebre Lagoon, where they organize the groups on the boats.

So no matter if your party is of 2 or 7 you will always end up in a full boat with 12 to 16 people which means that you are all squeezed and if you are in the middle you won’t have the best experience.

The cost is 50 USD (1200 MXN) per person.

If you want to take pictures or video, it’s quite hard, with so many people on the boat.

However, I went a second time in Guerrero Negro, and I had a much better experience, even if we were still 12 on the boat. Also, when we got back to the shore, the guide allowed me to launch the drone, and I caught a mum and a calf playing together, as you saw in the video at the top of this article. And that only made my day.

However, during the trip, we also saw many whales coming up from everywhere and approaching the boat closely. It was phenomenal, probably the best experience ever with the grey whales.

Where to book your whale watching tour in Guerrero Negro.

After my unfortunate first experience, I stayed at Los Caracoles the following year, a simple yet very cute and clean hotel in town. You can book your whale watching tour at the reception directly with them like I did. You can also contact their travel agency to organize other amazing trips off the beaten path around Guerrero Negro.

Where is the best place to see the grey whales?

As you can see from my experience, it all depends on many factors, especially weather conditions, as well as unpredictable whale behavior. So my best advice is to book at least 3 or 4 tours so you will have more chances to have a great experience, and maybe you will have four great experiences. Who knows!

Just be armed with a good heart and an open mind and the whales will come to you!

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Where else in the world can you do whale watching?

Baja California whale watching experience offers some of the best whale watching in the world, and that’s why I have dedicated this post to this region.

However, besides Baja, there are other places in Mexico for whale watching.

In fact, whales travel from Alaska all the way down. by the entire Mexican Pacific Coast in winter, from late December through the end of March, and there are many other spots to see them.

I have to say, Baja California is my favorite spot because it’s where you can see more whale species in one place. In fact, Marine biologists go to Baja California especially to study their behaviors.

However, let’s give justice to other great vacation places in Mexico where you can also enjoy whales, like Puerto Vallarta and Sayulita .

I have also gone whale watching in the Azores and in Norway where I went to swim with orcas and whales and it was such an emotional experience I cannot even describe it, but you can watch my Youtube Yideo to see those gentle giants from close.